What is going on
A toilet only seals as well as what it sits on. When people swap one themselves, the common failures are a broken or low flange, a wax ring that was set twice, or a floor that has softened from an old slow leak. Any of those leads to a rocking bowl, sewer smell, or water stains on the ceiling below. Reasons to replace include constant clogs from an old low-flow model, cracks in the tank or bowl, upgrading to comfort height, and remodels that move the fixture.
What we check
- 01
Flange height and condition
Cracked or below-floor flanges get repaired or extended before anything else.
- 02
Subfloor around the drain
We press and probe for soft spots from past leaks.
- 03
Rough-in measurement
Distance from the wall to the drain so the new toilet actually fits.
- 04
Shutoff and supply
Stop valve tested and a new supply line installed.
- 05
Seal and flush test
Multiple flushes with a check at the base and under the tank.
Your options
Standard replacement
Same rough-in, healthy flange. New toilet, seal and supply line.
Flange repair plus install
Broken, rusted or recessed flange fixed first so the new seal holds.
Relocation or wall-hung
Remodel layouts, carriers in the wall, or moving a drain in a slab.
Before we get there
Measure from the finished wall to the center of the bolts at the base. Most are 12 inches, some are 10 or 14. That measurement decides which toilets will fit. Clear a path from the bathroom to the door for carrying the old one out.