What is going on
A tankless heater fires a powerful burner only when hot water runs. That means no standby heat loss and no running out of hot water in the middle of a second shower. It also means the unit draws a lot of gas at full fire, often more than an old tank line can supply. The most common tankless problems we see from others are undersized gas lines, wrong vent materials, and no service valves for descaling. Done right, tankless is a great upgrade. Done wrong, it short cycles and throws error codes.
What we check
- 01
Peak demand
How many fixtures run at once and the temperature rise needed.
- 02
Gas line capacity
Pipe size and length from the meter, plus the meter itself.
- 03
Venting route
Approved vent material and termination location for the model.
- 04
Water quality
Hardness tested, since scale is the top tankless killer here.
- 05
Service valves
Isolation valves installed so the unit can be flushed.
Your options
Tank to tankless conversion
Gas line upsized, new venting, wall mount and valve kit.
Tankless replacement
Swapping an older tankless unit for a new one.
Tankless plus softener
Hard water areas where scale protection keeps the heat exchanger clean.
Before we get there
Take a photo of your current heater, the gas meter and where the gas line enters the house. Note how many people live in the home and how many showers might run at once. That gets the sizing conversation started on the phone.