What is going on
Tank heaters fail in two ways. Slowly, with less hot water, popping noises and rusty water as sediment builds and the tank corrodes. Or suddenly, when the tank splits and water pours into the garage or closet. Replacement is more than swapping cylinders. Gas units need correct venting and a sediment trap. Every unit needs a working temperature and pressure relief valve with a discharge line to a safe spot, plus an expansion tank when the home has a pressure regulator or check valve.
What we check
- 01
Size and recovery
Household size, number of baths and simultaneous use guide the tank size.
- 02
Venting
Flue size, slope and clearance for gas units, checked against the new heater.
- 03
Gas or electrical supply
Gas line size and shutoff, or breaker and wiring for electric.
- 04
Safety parts
Relief valve, discharge line, drain pan and expansion tank.
- 05
Location access
Attic, garage or closet, plus what it takes to get the old one out.
Your options
Like-for-like replacement
Same fuel and size, existing venting and connections in good condition.
Upsize
Bigger family, more baths, or a soaking tub that drains the tank.
Switch to tankless
Endless hot water and wall-mounted space savings, if gas and venting allow.
Before we get there
Find the gas shutoff or breaker for the water heater. Clear a path from the heater to the garage door or front door. Note the model sticker on the old tank if you can see it, since capacity and fuel type help us bring the right unit.