What is going on
Many water heater calls are part failures, not tank failures. On gas units, the thermocouple or flame sensor, gas valve, or igniter quits. On electric units, heating elements and thermostats burn out. A dripping relief valve may mean house pressure is too high, not that the valve is bad. Rusty water may be a spent anode rod. The one problem nobody can fix is a leaking tank body. Once the steel corrodes through, replacement is the only safe answer.
What we check
- 01
Source of any leak
Tank body, fittings, relief valve or drain valve. Only one of these means replacement.
- 02
Ignition or elements
Pilot, thermocouple and burner on gas, or element and thermostat readings on electric.
- 03
Relief valve and pressure
House pressure measured to see why a relief valve is discharging.
- 04
Sediment level
Flushing reveals how much mineral buildup sits on the bottom.
- 05
Venting and draft
Gas units checked for proper draft and backdrafting.
Your options
Part replacement
Thermocouple, igniter, element, thermostat or valve on a sound tank.
Flush and service
Rumbling, slow recovery or sediment-related performance issues.
Replace the heater
Leaking tank or a unit near the end where repair money is better spent on new.
Before we get there
If the tank is leaking, close the cold water valve on top and shut off gas or power to the heater. Do not try to relight a gas unit that smells like gas. Note any error code or blinking light pattern on the control.