What is going on
A good shower is mostly decided before anyone sees it. The valve has to sit at the correct depth for the finished wall. The drain has to land where the pan slope works. The supply has to be big enough for the heads you want. Get one wrong and you live with a handle that sticks out too far, a pan that holds water, or a rain head that trickles. Most of our shower installs are part of a bathroom remodel, a tub-to-shower conversion for aging in place, or a straight valve upgrade from an old two-handle setup.
What we check
- 01
Valve and trim match
Brand and series confirmed so the trim you picked fits the valve in the wall.
- 02
Finished wall depth
Backer, mortar and tile thickness added up so the valve sits flush, not buried or proud.
- 03
Drain position
Centered where the pan or prefab base needs it, with the trap accessible if possible.
- 04
Supply sizing
Line size and water heater capacity checked before adding body sprays or a second head.
- 05
Pressure test before close-up
Valve capped and tested so no leak hides behind brand new tile.
Your options
Trim and head upgrade
Existing valve stays. New handle, spout and head. No wall work.
Valve replacement
Tired valve out, a pressure-balance or thermostatic body in, so the temperature stays put.
Full rough-in
New layout, curbless entry, or tub conversion during a remodel, coordinated with your contractor.
Before we get there
Have the valve and trim brand on hand if you already bought them, plus any spec sheet from the box. If a tile setter or remodeler is involved, give us their number. We like to confirm wall thickness with them before rough-in day.