What is going on
Most people replace a faucet for one of three reasons: the old one is leaking from the base, the finish is shot, or the kitchen just got remodeled. The faucet itself is rarely the hard part. The trouble hides under the sink. Original angle stops seize. Braided lines kink against a disposal. Mounting nuts rust onto the deck. A faucet that wobbles after a month was usually tightened against corroded hardware or a countertop thicker than the kit expected. We plan for all of that before the old one comes off.
What we check
- 01
Shutoff valves
We close both stops and watch the spout. If either one weeps or will not seal, it gets replaced now, not later.
- 02
Hole count and spread
Single hole, 4 inch, or 8 inch widespread. We match the faucet to the sink or plan a deck plate.
- 03
Counter thickness
Granite and quartz tops can run past the shank length on budget kits. We measure before we commit.
- 04
Supply line fit
Correct length and thread so nothing is stretched, kinked, or rubbing a disposal body.
- 05
Leak test under load
Full flow hot and cold, sprayer pulled out, cabinet floor checked with a dry towel.
Your options
Straight swap
Same hole pattern, healthy valves. The quickest version of this job.
Swap plus new stops
Old multi-turn valves that drip or stick. Quarter-turn stops go in while the water is already off.
Layout change
Going from a three-hole to a single lever, adding a filtered water tap, or drilling a stone counter for a sprayer.
Before we get there
Clear everything out from under the sink and set it somewhere dry. If you bought the faucet yourself, leave it in the box so we can check the parts list. Snap a photo of the model sticker on the box in case a part is missing.